One of England's greatest cathedrals is Ely, a Norman-to-perpendicular pile which stands on an eminence commanding the fen country of Cambridgeshire. Named for the eels abounding in its waters, eely Ely is a market town of only 8,000-odd inhabitants. Its fairs, held on the feast of Saxon St. Etheldreda (or St. Audrey, whence the word tawdry), are still nominally run by the Bishop of Ely. There is not much else for His Lordship to do in Ely; nearby Cambridge has more religious life, and there the Ely diocesan conferences are held. Yet, because he...
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