Music: In Salzburg

On the swift-rushing River Salzach in the Austrian Tyrol lies Salzburg, rimmed on three sides by operatic-looking mountains. There Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born and there on a lake outside the town Max Reinhardt owns a baroque castle, where he long ago began giving sumptuous parties for his troupe and for such visitors as Arturo Toscanini, Feodor Chaliapin, Paul Drennan Cravath, Greta Garbo, Edward of Wales.

About 15 miles from Salzburg in Bavaria is Berchtesgaden, Adolf Hitler's summer snuggery. Last year the Realmleader tried, with an eminent lack of success, to sabotage...

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