Art: Banyuls' First Citizen

In a corner of the Manhattan offices occupied by the French Consulate is the Pierre Matisse Gallery, a showroom run by the suave young son of the great French painter, Henri Matisse. Last week this gallery had something of major importance to show to importers, passport vise seekers, messenger boys and visiting celebrities: an exhibition of drawings by Aristide Maillol whom France ranks, with Antoine Bourdelle, as one of the two greatest living sculptors.

To a Parisian, Banyuls is the name of a heavy dessert wine, artificially colored scarlet and spiked with quinine,...

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