Steppe On It

When it comes to comfort, a sojourn in Mongolia doesn't score highlynot surprising, given that the present hallmarks of luxury are hot water, any meat that isn't yak, and a functioning van. Hoping to change that is American venture capitalist Lee Cashell, who offers something he calls "expedition luxury" through his company Mongolian Resorts.

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Since 2002, Cashell and his Mongolian wife, Tsendsuren, have been providing basic creature comforts for intrepid visitors to Mongolia's capital, Ulan Bator. At their guesthouse, tel: (976) 9909 1899, backpackers pay $5-$15 for one of 50 beds per night. Travelers are usually delighted to trade...