Animals: Diggers

Each year the calloused, potato-masher snouts of pigs probe the earth of southern France, bring up $15,000,000 worth of truffles for the omelets, canapes, sauces, poultry dressings of world gourmets. No ordinary packing house pigs are these animals. They are usually as well trained, as highly esteemed as good quail dogs or fox hounds.

Unleashed in an oak grove where truffles (warted, globular fungus growths) are found, they race madly about, start digging furiously under the admiring eyes of their owners. Once the swine discover the fungus, a few inches under the...

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