Few people visit Britain's northernmost specks of rockthe Muckle Flugga and the Out Stack. But even if their irresistible, Tolkienesque names aren't enough to lure you there, the tours run by Jonathan Wills should. The wildlife expert escorts boatloads of visitors around the 100-plus islands that make up the Shetland archipelago (the aforementioned pair included). His daylong Top of Britain cruise departs from another delightfully named islandYelland is a big crowd puller, with seal and seabird encounters aplenty as it slices through the bracing North Atlantic waters. "On every trip, I've shown visitors tens of thousands of seabirds and dozens...
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