Lucknow, India, once the seat of the Nawabs of Awadhprinces renowned for their sybarite lifestyleis now a down-at-the-heel city 500 km southwest of Delhi. But it retains one royal passion: food. India's finest lamb dishes derive from Awadhi cuisine, the ultimate expression of which is the delicate Kakori kebab, a cigar-shaped delight produced in a hamlet of that name half an hour's drive from Lucknow. Local legend says it was created for a toothless prince, and it's easy to see why. Made from finely ground mutton, infused with cloves, cinnamon and other spices, the Kakori is so soft it...
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