Every Champagne lover owes it to himself to make a pilgrimage to the place where the bubbles are bornand it's only an hour-plus train ride from Paris. But be warned: the climate in Champagne can be lousy. Even in July, I've felt as chilled as a glass of Blanc de Blanc while visiting one of Mot & Chandon's vineyards near Epernay. And in the fall, when
vendange is underway and you can watch as the grapes are harvested by hand, it can be cool indeed. But it's the weather, along with the area's chalky, bone-white soil, that helps this region...
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