You don't go to Trasierra, you escape to it: from the dead heat of Seville in summer, from the crush of tourists in cooler months—or, for regular visitor Kate Moss, from the unwelcome intrusions of the paparazzi. The hotel, converted from a 16th century Andalusian manor, is a cosy redoubt defended by 3,000 acres of olive and orange groves in the Sierra Morena, an hour's drive northeast of the city. It keeps the outside world deliberately at bay: there are no phones in the 12 bedrooms, and no TV sets.
Upon arriving, the visitor is greeted...
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