"Waiter, Is This Scone Organic?"

Illustration for TIME by IAN EVANS

No place is safe from the postmodern obsession with all things natural and New Age. Not even the medieval English town of Totnes. Nestled in the lush pastures and wheat fields near Dartmoor in southern Devon, Totnes for decades made a quiet living from cream teas, antiques and postcards. But these days, it's a magnet for urban refugees running the kind of bohemian business normally associated with trendy metropolitan neighborhoods.

Twenty years...

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