Bitter Aftertaste

Come in here," says my friend Feri as we stop en route from Marseilles to Hungary at a gas station in northern Italy. "There's something you must see."

Gazing up at me from dozens of wine bottles on the station's shelves is Adolf Hitler, his right arm outstretched in the familiar Nazi salute. Alongside him is a bottle bearing a portrait of SS chief Heinrich Himmler, organizer of the mass murder of 6 million European Jews. Joseph Stalin and Benito Mussolini are there as well, staring out from hundreds of bottles of Merlot, Burgundy, Cabernet Sauvignon and the...