Leiria

The Euro 2004 tournament will be played in eight great Portuguese cities. Here's a guide to some of their delights:

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The city of Leiria in the lower Beira region has long been known for nurturing fragile forms. In 1254 it was the site of the first Portuguese cortes (parliament) to include commoners. But for the past two centuries or so, Leiria (pop. 50,000) has been best known for its fine, handblown glassware, made in the factories of nearby Marinha Grande. The industry is a legacy of Portugal's maritime ambitions: 700 years ago, the monarchy ordered the planting of 12,000...