Sipping In Sicily

While the winemakers of Sicily have recently taken a shine to trendier Merlots and Cabernets, it's the ancient grapesthose that were first planted 4,000 years ago by the Greeksthat produce some of the finest wines in the region.

These lesser-known delights, such as Ansonica, Catarratto and Grillo (whites) and Nera d'Avola, Frappato and Nerello Mascalese (reds), can produce little-known winners. Reds blend generous sun-drenched fruit and fennel-like earthiness. The most appealing whites are fresh and floral. These fascinating Sicilian wines reflect the local soil and climate: accents of salty sea air, candied orange peel and minerals from the...