Bittersweet Symphony

[an error occurred while processing this directive]Gourmet chocolate in Japan is usually associated with the obligatory truffle assortments in deluxe packaging that fly off the shelves on Valentine's Day. But recent television programs extolling the cancer- and heart-attack-preventing nutrients in rich, dark chocolate have elevated the confectionery to the status of red wine. It's good for you and you can be snobbish about it. Product placards in the top chocolate shops and cafés now list where the cocoa bean was grown as well as the percentage of cocoa in each mouthwatering morsel.

The latest varieties have that distinct Japanese twist: fillings range...

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