Marrakech Express

By day, Marrakech's Djamaa El-Fna square is home to a loud, colorful marketplace. Locals shop for herbs and fruit, while the snake charmer's pipes and the fortune-teller's call compete for the almighty tourist dollar. By night, though, the square is transformed into a smorgasbord of street food. A cloud of smoke hangs over endless rows of food stalls, each one grilling, boiling, frying or steaming some tasty morsel. Chefs in white aprons scoop, slice and serve like doctors trying to cure world hunger, one bowl of couscous at a time.

But at heart, Djamaa El-Fna is all...

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