Ecotourism Without Tears

Tick off any of the following if you've done them on holiday: a) winced at the number of fluffy bathrobes you got through; b) realized that the barman's weekly wage wouldn't pay for one of the many pina coladas you've just drained; c) wished you could meet a local, other than that barman; d) thought the beach was lovely—if only they hadn't stuck an unsightly hotel on it.

If you checked off on all four, then join the rest of us. But though we all like to pay lip service to "sustainable tourism"—tourism ventures that emphasize ecology, ensure...