Cocoa Cooks

Chocolate sales rise every February as romantics search for the perfect confection to express their feelings. But this year the message may contain a bit more bite, now that chocolatiers are creating treats that are more savory than sweet. Vosges Haut-Chocolate is offering truffles filled with Taleggio cheese or topped with dried olives. Chefs are also using cocoa in dishes that come before dessert. F. Bryce Whittlesey has created a menu at Wheatleigh in Lenox, Mass., that includes lobster, foie gras and venison all made using chocolate as one would a spice or an herb. How sweet it is or isn't.