Champagne Supernova

MICHEL SPINGLER/AP PHOTO

A cellar at the Pommery champagne maker in Reims, eastern France

If you make only one New Year's resolution, this should be it: ring in 2004 with a single-vineyard champagne. Ninety percent of all French bubbly is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir that the top brands carefully mix to ensure consistency from year to year. Single-vineyard champagnes, however, are made from just one type of grape from a single plot of land — and they're fast becoming the toast of champagne lovers everywhere.

Krug Clos Du Mesnil, for instance, comes...

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