Champagne Supernova

If you make only one New Year's resolution, this should be it: ring in 2004 with a single-vineyard champagne. Ninety percent of all French bubbly is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir that the top brands carefully mix to ensure consistency from year to year. Single-vineyard champagnes, however, are made from just one type of grape from a single plot of land — and they're fast becoming the toast of champagne lovers everywhere.

Krug Clos Du Mesnil , for instance, comes...