If you want to do Dublin by night the way the locals do, then get out of those characterful but grimy pubs and into one of the slick new venues that have mushroomed in the Irish capital of late. Realizing that there's more to the Craic than staring into a pint of Guinness while maudlin folk songs play on an endless loop, Dublin's restaurateurs have turned the city into a reasonable simulacrum of a dining destination.