If You're Ever In ... Amman

Asia's Tomb Raiders
 Spirited Away
 How to Raid a Tomb
 Moving the Loot
October 20, 2003 Issue

 Malaysia: Mahathir steps down
 Essay: Last of the strongmen?
 Korea: Roh's Woes

 Japan: Baseball's losers win
 China: Blood Feud
 N. Korea: Suspicious accident

 Travel: Lowdown on the high life
 Check In: Best airport lounge
 Concorde: A piece of history
 Berlin: Underground art
 DIY: Taking kids abroad
 Style: Bespoke, not broke
 Food: Lambrosia

CNN.com: Top Headlines
Any decent correspondent on the road tries to get as close as possible to the local experience. When I'm reporting from the Middle East, for instance, I find that the best barometers of public opinion are tea houses and street-corner restaurants, where complex political discussions rage at every table. An added bonus: they let me get as close as possible to the local cuisine.

My all-time-favorite canteen is Ajyad, a no-frills joint in Amman's Jabal Hussein district patronized by working-class Palestinians. With its wrought-iron furniture, plastic flowers and chipped crockery, Ajyad won't win any awards for decor,...

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