Divided We Fall

When I made a reporting trip to Pakistan's rugged Baluchistan province in 2004, I expected to encounter strong feelings against the central government in Islamabad. Baluchistan was in the grips of a low-level insurgency, with tribesmen demanding greater autonomy for the province. Just days before my trip, a roadside bomb in the Baluch fishing village of Gwadar had killed five Chinese engineers working on Pakistan's premier development project: a massive new port. So I was surprised to see children in Gwadar playing cricket in replicas of the uniforms of Pakistan's national team. In fact, the only hostility I encountered was from...

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