Bohemia's Bohemia

A bit bored with Prague's overwhelming period-film beauty? Just a 15-minute tram ride from the city center lies Zizkov, a district for those who fancy an atmosphere better suited to an indie film. Slightly seedy, bohemian and proud, Zizkov is a dynamic neighborhood with a blue-collar past and a middle-class, cosmopolitan future.

If Zizkov was an organism, beer would be its blood and Borivojova Street its main artery—it's home to about two dozen bars and pubs. The sounds of live rock, punk, blues, country and Old Prague accordion pour from open windows on summer nights. And while the...

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