Vietnam's relentless modernization means there are increasingly fewer opportunities to step back into the country's past. But the splendid Café Tung, tel: (84-63) 821 390, is an exception. With its retro skai
-covered sofas and Jacques Brel posters, it looks more like a 1960s Parisian cellar than a coffee shop in the present-day Central Highlands town of Dalat. Not that there are any complaints from the clientele, who comprise a fair slice of Dalat's artists and intellectuals (the town is Vietnam's pre-eminent bohemian enclave). From early morning, they gather to read the papers and suck down potent glasses of ca phe...
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