Over the past 20 years, Macau has been reinvented. One of the most relentless building programs of modern times has transformed this onetime Portuguese enclave from a backwater of crumbling villas, sleeping dogs and avuncular priests into a shiny pleasure zone that is the envy of southern China. From across the Pearl River estuary, Hong Kong's worldly denizens once snickered pityingly at their small-town, Macanese cousins. Now the latter are having the last laugh, unveiling bombastic showpiece after showpiecefrom dazzling casinos and resorts to a new sports arena and (in the works) a lavish theme park complete with erupting volcano....
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