At the United Nations of Food

I was never one for pickles and ice cream, but I found the next best thing at Ikukan, a small Japanese restaurant tucked behind the trendy bars of Singapore's Club Street: a layer of melted Camembert cheese sandwiched between two grilled fish cakes, held together by a ribbon of seaweed. To a woman five-months pregnant, it was heavenly. So was an avocado shake flavored with coffee—shot of whiskey optional—that I tasted at a stand in the Alexander Village Hawker Center. Such creative fare has shaped Singapore's reputation as Asia's most cutting-edge culinary destination—and...

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