Hell on (Three) Wheels

One hundred baht. Take it or leave it," says Wiset Samsee. I've been negotiating with the 28-year-old driver for some time, but Wiset is unmoved. He seems more interested in the procession of jiggling, pierced, backpacker flesh parading down Bangkok's Khao San Road than in tackling the Friday-afternoon rush hour.

"That's nearly twice what a taxi would cost," I protest. He shrugs and takes a pull on his cigarette. "80 baht?" I venture. It's almost 6 p.m., and every minute wasted means another minute's worth of traffic backing up in the capital's sclerotic...

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