Where Tourists Feared to Tread

Caught in the headlights, the giant, black silhouette revolves slowly to face us. Its sleepy eyes contemplate our car absently, before it turns back to tug on a heavy branch. "Elephant, madam!" screams the driver. He searches in panic for reverse, and we weave backward, the engine whining like a siren. We hide by the side of the road to wait. Only when the driver is certain the jumbo has disappeared into the night does he move us tentatively forward, scanning the darkness for any other car-crushing tuskers.

In fact, that elephant was only the first of half...