Thailand: Rain on My Parade

It was supposed to be the party to end all parties, on Thailand's premier party isle; a riot of noise and color that would banish the specters of terrorism and SARS and celebrate Koh Samui's transformation from druggy refuge to haven of good, clean family fun. The Beach author Alex Garland was out, floral garlands were inif you bought the hype.

Bangkok Airways, organizers of the inaugural Koh Samui Carnival, flooded newsdesks this summer with breathless prose and photos of brown bodies draped in fruit and feathers. Koh Samui was billed as the "Rio de Janeiro of the...

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