German Beer Goes Flat

JAN NIENHEYSEN/REUTERS

HEADY STUFF: Although Germans still love their own beer best, many medium-sized brewers are having trouble staying afloat. But for some brands like Munich's Hofbrüu, the foam's still flying

Christian Eisenbeiss has beer in his blood. So does Bernhard Sailer. Both are third-generation members of German brewing families, both love their work, and for now, both are brewing up heady profits. But if you had to choose which man represents the future of the troubled German beer industry, it would have to be the New York-born Eisenbeiss (his parents emigrated to the U.S.). He and his sister share a 48% stake in the company that sells more beer to Germans than anyone else — Holsten, on Germany's north coast. Eisenbeiss believes a modern brewer needs to be big — Holsten...

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