Thailand: Detour

CURRENT AFFAIRS "The Mae Klong is the most beautiful river in Thailand," said Chai, our Burmese guide, as we slid down a gentle series of rapids in our red rubber raft. Transfixed by the multitude of rainbows suspended in a giant curtain of spray tossed up before a fern-dappled cliff, we found it difficult to argue.

Besides, superlatives are Umphang's stock in trade. By day's end, we would be camped at Southeast Asia's biggest waterfall (Thi Lor Su, an aquatic Goliath some 400 m tall and 500 m wide), getting...

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