Detour: Stone Temple Pilot

Are you Lilliputian in stature? Or too tight, perhaps, to fork out the $20 required to spend a day communing with the spirits of ancient Khmer Kings? Then maybe the other Angkor Wat is for you.

That's right, there are two. There is, of course, the Angkor Wat that has graced a million postcards, with its soaring stone towers, its lily-strewn moat, its bas-reliefs and labyrinths, its babel of tourists and silky-tongued touts who can con you in five languages. And then there's the Angkor Wat in Dy Proeung's front yard.

"I don't know why...

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