Curry Without the Hurry

Indian restaurants across Asia used to offer comfort food for exiled subcontinentals, and a touch of cheap spice for everyone else. That was yesterday's formula. A new crop of Indian restaurateurs is aiming for international culinary recognitionówhile also trying to attract diners with fat walletsóby offering ultra-cool premises, wine lists fit for a Michelin-starred French gem, and an innovative take on old classics.

There is no one Indian cuisine, of course. Bengalis eat completely differently from their compatriots in Kerala, Kashmir or Gujarat. The vast majority of Hindus consider themselves vegetarians; but it's the meat-heavy menus of the...

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