The Beluga Blues

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"I always had Caspian caviar on my menus," says Moonen. "It was the benchmark of what caviar was supposed to be." But when Moonen noticed a decline in the quality of Caspian caviar a few years ago, he started shopping for alternatives. His menu currently features Blue Island oysters with cucumber sorbet and paddlefish roe. He also offers patrons sea-urchin custard with champagne foam and rainbow-trout caviar. Next up: buckwheat waffles with Sterling caviar. Purists would be appalled, but if that's what it takes to ensure the survival of an ancient sea creature, it may be worth it.