Red Fort? Seen It. Now What?

Ask any Indophile about travel in the subcontinent, and he'll regale you with tales of bobsledding buses in the Himalayas, great, late trains and the thrill of being in a rickshaw driven by the blind and carefree. "It's all part of the fun," he'll chuckle as he starts in on the night he once shared with a shepherd, two nuns and a flatulent elephant on the Calcutta Express. But while the romance of the Indian road undoubtedly endures, even seasoned voyagers find the charms of New Delhi's choking, lawless traffic fairly thin. There is simply a limit to how many times...