Simple But Superb

We should have seen this coming when, in the early 1990s, British pubs began to get serious about their food. It was only a matter of time before some of them got too serious. It was one thing for The Eagle in London's hip Clerkenwell district to modernize bangers and mash with an uncompromising concern for good ingredients served in daunting sizes, but things have gotten out of hand when your local boozer starts offering "a flaky pastry pillow filled with cod, hoki [sic] and salmon." And it's not reassuring when that exotic-sounding concoction turns out to be a humble fish...