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MATRIMONIAL BLISS The Balinese know how to treat their brides. Though marriage wasn't on my mind when I entered the Ubud Sari Health Resort, call (62-361) 974 398, I opted for the Mandi Lulur, a beauty treatment usually reserved for women on their wedding day. My masseuse led me to a garden bungalow, where she massaged my knotted muscles with aromatic oils, then polished my skin with lulur, a traditional exfoliating paste made from pounded rice, turmeric and local spices. After a soak in a rose petal milk bath, I finished in the cedar-scented steam room. Relaxed, oiled and burnished,...