Paris in autumn can be damp and gray, with plunging temperatures that make sidewalk cafés and long walks along the Seine less than romantic. Luckily, the city has a tradition of outfoxing the fall gloom with the indoor dazzle of its museums, galleries and exhibition halls. This fall's lineup is exceptionally eclectic. In addition to the blockbuster Matisse and Picasso show at the Grand Palais and the big Max Beckmann retrospective at the Centre Pompidou, the season's new shows include Old Masters, guitar gods and great photographers.
At the Musée d'Orsay, Manet/Velázquez, The Spanish Manner in the...