Shaking off the Dust Of a Dirty Little War

STATON R. WINTER/GETTY IMAGES for TIME

COMING HOME: Gullu Ates is rebuilding her house, destroyed by Turkish forces in 1995

Cracking walnuts on her doorstep in the hilltop village of Dede Agac, Gullu Ates, 53, recalls the morning in 1995 when Cobra helicopters roared up the valley and blasted her stone home into a smoking ruin. The choppers, from the Turkish army, were hunting Kurdish rebels who had just killed 20 soldiers in an ambush. When the aircraft appeared over the brow of the hill, Ates' family fled with their cows to the shelter of the mausoleum, where the entire village had gathered. "We were trapped inside all day," she says, crushing another shell. "There was screaming everywhere. Soldiers went door...

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