Seoul's Green Revolution

I admire the broad Han River as it flows past Seoul toward the sea and watch as Hyeong Ku-yun absently baits another line. A 30-something technician at a local hospital, he comes regularly after work to fish in the Han now that it's been cleaned up. "Sure there are fish here," he assures me. "Tons of mullet and carp. The mullet make excellent hwae." That's Korean for sashimi. I'm a bit incredulous that one would dare eat raw fish from the Han River. I find it difficult to exorcise memories of the Han's less wholesome days, when the river had all...

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