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VOLCANOES OF ANOTHER COLOR My first glimpse of Keli Mutu was out the plane window. The pilot banked and circled so we could get a bird's-eye view of the strangest and most famous volcano on Flores. It squatted above the surrounding hills like some amorphous ogre, pregnant with menace, glaring up with three vast, unblinking eyes. The colors looked so unnatural that at first I thought I was peering into tailing ponds filled with toxic sludge from a large mining operation. Then the pilot informed us we were looking at the crater lakes of Keli Mutu, or "burning mountain." One was...

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