THE FOREST'S DARK CREATURES Nagarahole is a lush tropical forest on the edge of Coorg, where the coffee bushes give way to bamboo thickets on either side of the road. You'll know you've reached the national park by the roadside checkpoints manned by wildlife officers. They're on the lookout for the illegal hunters and smugglers who roam this wild area, trading in both ivory and aromatic sandalwood trees. Bandits have made the place their Sherwood Forest. The infamous Koose Muniswamy Veerappan, known for a long run of kidnappings, is reputed to have funded operations from woodland spoils, and has eluded capture...

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