Hot Spot

SMALL TREATS Nanjing, unlike many Chinese cities, doesn't boast about its tasty snacks. While Shanghainese love to brag about their steamed pork buns and Beijingers crow about their boiled dumplings, Nanjing keeps its particular brand of xiao chi, or little snacks, under wraps. The best way to sample Nanjing's unsung delectables at their most authentic is to join the early morning crowds in the Wenchang Xiang neighborhood, a few blocks from People's Square. You'll find dozens of dexterous cooks already up and kneading, shaping, frying and baking all manner of snacks.

One of my favorites is jianbing, or fried pancake. Crepe batter...