Thailand's Hua Hin Resort Has the Royal Touch

Southeast Asia's battle of the beaches has been raging since sun, surf and sand became a holiday Holy Grail to hordes of package tourists from cooler climes. Each season trumpets the discovery of yet another dream beach: lush palms, seafood fresh from the net, and miles of white sand, unblemished by footprints. Given the conflicting demands for laid-back escape and sumptuous lodging, nowhere has managed the mix better than Thailand. In the 1970s it was Pattaya. The 1980s: Phuket. Resorts by the score are already pining to supplant Ko Samui, favored destination of the '90s. Yet the victor may not be...