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CONFLICTING CLAIMS Chinese scholars say the glistening white pyramid perched on a bluff overlooking the Yalu River is the tomb of Koguryo's 5th century King Changsu. Some of their Korean counterparts disagree, believing their national hero to be buried in Koguryo's second capital, Pyongyang.

The Ji'an region is host to the largest collection of Koguryo tombs outside of Pyongyang, including pyramidal, stepped tombsólike that of Changsu'sóand more common mound tombs covered in earth and renowned for their painted murals. As some of the most impressive examples of ancient Asian art, these murals are also the latest fetish in...

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