Detour

Walk On The Wild Side Beyond Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, much of Sakhalin remains sparsely inhabited—a little traveled wilderness of emerald mountains, rocky coastlines and tranquil inland rivers teeming with salmon. Wildlife ranges from foxes, bears, sable and reindeer in the interior to marine bird colonies, seals and sea lions on the coast. It's possible to see them in the same day. The island's undeveloped state means that getting to the wilderness is half the excitement, though it requires stamina and the will to drive yet another hour up the rutted mud strip before you. On the way you may wonder if the bone-jarring...

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