Beyond, Literally, Angkor Wat

Cambodia presents a few problems for people traveling with children. All those skulls at the Killing Fields near Phnom Penh will induce nightmares, and hiking untold acres of stone temples near Siem Reap could elicit as much whining as wonder. But 30 km beyond Angkor Wat is an exquisite mountain region of waterfalls, ancient wreckage and riverbed carvings that leave visitors of any age in awealthough trying to explain the thousand stone phalluses to the youngsters might present a challenge.

Phnom Kulen is the holiest mountain in Cambodia and a picnic destination for Khmer families. But few foreigners...