Short Cut

Time out of Mind Negombo, a town only a 20-min. taxi ride from Colombo airport, is more a place of transit for tourists than a destination. Strange then, to find there a hotel where time stands still. A private, mildly eccentric guesthouse, called the Icebear, offers seven private rooms, each with its own hammock and a terrace overlooking a verdant garden shaded by coconut palms — home to ducks, monkeys and an old dog in the twilight of its life. The Icebear is run by a Swiss entrepreneur — known only by his first name, Gerry — who lives on the...

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