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Beach-Bunker Bingo The soldier glared as he came out of the bunker, AK-47 first. His comrades watched from behind mounted machine guns as he leaned down and asked curt questions. Where were we going? How long would we stay? He stood up, squinted at our bags, and finally waved us through, convinced we weren't guerrilla operatives. We were just going to the beach.

The military checkpoints are the first sign that Trincomalee isn't your average beach resort. The navy gunboats sweeping the harbor are another. So why are hotels in this northeastern Sri Lankan town booked nearly solid...

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