Hot Spot: Guangzhou

LITTLE DELIGHTS Dim sum is an institution more than a cuisine. Literally "touch the heart," the delicate dump-lings and scrumptious small dishes are a hallmark of Chinese food from New Jersey to New Delhi to their origins in Guangzhou. Specialized chefs train for decades in their preparation, and Cantonese gobble them up with almost ritualistic reverence from morning to midnight.

Succulent combinations of shrimp, crabmeat and pork in paper-thin pastry-like wrappings are steamed and served in the trademark bamboo baskets, which are loaded onto carts and wheeled through the restaurantómobile menu and tableside delivery in one. Beyond the signature dumplings, other offerings...

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