South China's Happening Heart

As my taxi veers away from Guangzhou East Train Station, a recorded voice reminds me to please buckle my seat belt. This is excellent advice, because most taxi drivers in China have a nihilistic approach to life, limb and traffic law. There's just one problem: taxis in this town don't have seat belts. That's Guangzhou, a town making and remaking itself so rapidly it can be forgiven if it forgets to install a few safety features along the way. The entrepreneurial spirit in this capital of Guangdong province is celebrated during the Chinese Export Commodities Fair, held every April and October...

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